Coin Collecting News

The period 1965 to 1967 was an interesting time in US numismatic history. The price of silver had risen to the point where it made no sense to make higher denomination coins out of silver. In addition, there was a widely reported coin shortage, despite record production levels.

As the mint scrambled to adjust, a number of emergency measures were taken. Production of 1964-dated coinage continued well into 1965 until the new clad planchets were ready. Then, to make sure that there was enough of the new coinage to go around, the mint decided both to cease production of proof coinage and to do away with mintmarks. The only concession of any kind made to coin collectors were the Special Mint Sets of 1965-67, not true proof coins, but high quality circulation strike coins similar in some ways to the satin finish coins in mint sets today.

In 1968, the mint resumed the use of mintmarks and the production of proof coinage, but with a new twist. Proof coins, like the prior Special Mint Set coins, were now made in San Francisco, and the S mintmark reappeared after a 12 year hiatus. Initially, the San Francisco Mint also manufactured some circulation strike cents and nickels, but their dimes, quarters, and halves were strictly proofs. The mint would eventually also make Susan B. Anthony dollars for circulation, as well as silver-clad Ike dollars and bicentennial coinage for collectors.

During the first year of S-mint proof set production, an unexpected hitch occurred. In a few sets full of S-mint coins, the dimes had no trace of a mintmark! This came about because at that time all coinage dies were prepared with no mintmark, which would be added only upon arrival at the branch mint. On one die, that didn’t happen, and an instant rarity was made.

Walter Breen opined that about six examples of the 1968 no S dime were known. If that is true, then Heritage has sold each of these coins an average of at least three times apiece. Nevertheless, the 1968 no S dime is clearly an extremely rare coin, likely R.6 or low R.7, surpassed in rarity among 20th century dimes by only one coin.

Heritage’s upcoming 2010 April-May Milwaukee, WI CSNS US Coin Auction includes a rather unique proof set: one each of the five collectible missing mintmark proof coins. Along with the 1968 no S dime, the set includes the 1970 no S dime, the 1971 no S nickel, the 1983 no S dime, and the 1990 no S cent. While none of these coins is as rare as the 1968 S-less dime, each is highly desirable, and a key to its respective proof series. All of the coins in the set grade Proof-68 or 69, and show the eye appeal expected of latter-day US Mint products.

Incidentally, the sole 20th century dime that is rarer than the 1968 no S proof dime is also an S-less proof. A mere two examples are known of the 1975 no S dime, and neither Heritage nor the major grading services has ever handled one!

Church Tithes and Illegal Games Contributing to Philippine Coin Shortage
Inquirer
Of all things, the Catholic Church and operators of the illegal numbers game “jueteng” have one thing in common—they contribute to the short supply of coins in the economy. “We have enough coins but the problem is the uneven distribution, creating an artificial shortage,” Diwa Guinigundo, deputy governor of the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (BSP), said yesterday. He said the “problem” was a result of certain factors—Mass collections, “jueteng” bets and the Filipino practice of saving coins.
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An Overview of Small Dollar Coins Missing Edge Lettering
NGC
When the Presidential $1 coins were first issued in 2007, their design called for lettered-edge inscriptions. For the first time ever, the date, mintmark and required inscriptions were to appear on the edge of the coin. The purpose of this feature, according to the authorizing legislation (the Presidential $1 Coin Act of 2005), was to give the dollar coins a distinctive edge as an aid to the blind or visually impaired. Additionally, it allowed for more room of the obverse, allowing for an expressive and artful depiction of the Nation’s past presidents. But edge lettering presented a challenge to the Mint. It was a significant undertaking, considering the number of dollars that would be struck.
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The Differences Between Copper, Bronze, and Brass
The E-Sylum
The difference to me, as a chemist in my former life, is that bronze is mainly copper plus tin (not zinc) in various proportions, and brass is mainly a copper-zinc alloy. For example, cartridge case (brass) cents contained zinc, and thereafter both tin and zinc (like the early bronze small cents). How to tell the difference just by looking? Bronze might appear a bit grainy and dull, without the brighter and shinier appearance of most things brass. Think of yellow brass hardware. Bronze is less stable to oxidation in general and darkens faster than brass. Think statues. Of course, all comparisons depend on the percentage composition of the components. There is really no clear-cut delineation. Once you go to mainly tin, with copper and other elements, you get pewter. And once you go to centuries-long aged medals, there’s likely no visible difference between most bronze and brass.
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Pursuing the Peace Dollar
Numismaster
I think it’s fair to say that if you want to collect silver dollars, large coins that actually contain a significant amount of silver, then the Peace dollar series, minted from 1921 to 1935, is the one to start with. For one thing, a complete collection of all date/mintmark combinations consists of just 24 coins. Only one of the 24, the 1928, is pricy in all grades and thus qualifies as a “key coin.” Relative to such key coins as the 1909-S V.D.B. Lincoln cent and the 1916-D Mercury dime, the 1928 Peace dollar could hardly be called a “stopper.” So, as interesting and collectible as the Peace dollar is, how did it come about? The answer lies earlier than 1921, with the end of the first world war. There was an interest among some for a new coin to commemorate the signing of the Treaty of Versailles that ended World War I.
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Concerns Over Rise In Counterfeit Coins in North Yorkshire
The Northern Echo
Concern has been raised about the number of forged coins being used in parking meters in a town. The number of counterfeit £1 coins used in meters in Richmond, North Yorkshire, in the past year amounts to £1,500, 0.5 per cent of the total amount collected – more than average. However, councillors at Richmondshire District Council are concerned the figure could rise. The car parks in Richmond are operated on behalf of the council by a private contractor, which collects the money and maintains the sites. At a council meeting, it was said the forged coins are never seen by anyone at the council because the contractor has a legal duty to send them to the Royal Mint to be destroyed.
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From the NGC series on Counterfeit Detection

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A basic lesson will help you always catch fakes, like this 1895-O Morgan Dollar, which could be deceptive to many.

In high school history class, a student asks his teacher, “Do I need to memorize dates for tomorrow’s test?”

The teacher replies, “No dates.”

Encouraged, the young student goes home and studies hard, following the teacher’s instruction. The next day he fails the test. Miserably.

Of course, the teacher had not told the student there would be NO dates on the test, but that he should KNOW dates. For aspiring counterfeit detectors, this instruction should be made even more clear: K-N-O-W dates!

Dates are very important areas to examine because they are unique to a particular coinage issues. The position, size and shape of the date should be the first elements examined when attempting to determine authenticity (unless better diagnostics are known for that coin). Often a misshapen or wayward digit is confirmation that something is amiss.

While this advice might seem to apply primarily to altered date coins, it is just as important for die-struck counterfeits. This 1895-O Morgan Dollar is a die-struck counterfeit recently made in China. It is of the correct weight and metal composition of an authentic coin. It is made from transfer dies and this coin would deceive many collectors.

By looking at the date under magnification, the coin immediately falls apart. Raised blobs of metal can be seen surrounding the 5, most prominently at 5:00 and 7:00. The metal flow is also suspiciously smoother in this area, dissimilar from the texture seen around the other digits. If you knew nothing else about this coin, those markers alone should scream, “not genuine.”

The counterfeiter made transfer dies for this coin by using a model coin from the 1890s, replacing the last digit with a 5. While this reveals the counterfeiter’s methods, it also tells us something else. Coins of every date and mintmark combination can be made in this same fashion. It’s therefore important to remember that this rule always applies: “Know dates!”